▲ Switchbacks A Colorado trail journal
Trails Field notes The writer Newsletter
Hiker with backpack on a rocky alpine ridge at sunrise looking toward two maroon-striped peaks
Sunrise on the ridge above Maroon Lake, facing the Bells.

Lead story · Maroon Bells Wilderness

The Bells at first light, and the four-mile warm-up nobody talks about

6.2 miles out and back · 1,750 ft gain · you're on the ridge by 6:40 if you start at the gate. Here's the exact line I take, where the trail turns to scree, and why I carry a puffy even in July.

By Dana Whitmore Oct 24, 2026 9 min read
Read the guide Browse all trails

Latest from the trail

No posts match that search. Try “pass”, “scree”, or clear the box.

Two hikers traversing a narrow rocky saddle between two gray summit peaks under bright midday sun
The saddle between Grays and Torreys, 13,900 ft.

Field note · Oct 18, 2026

“The scree moves more than you think it will.”

I've linked Grays and Torreys a dozen times and the saddle still surprises me. You crest the first summit feeling strong, then the trail drops into loose rock that slides a half-step with every stride. Short steps, poles planted, eyes two feet ahead. That's the whole trick.

The combo is 8.4 miles and 3,600 feet of gain, and it earns every one of them. I start at the summer trailhead before 6 a.m. to beat the afternoon storms and the parking crunch on the access road. If you only have time for one, take Grays — it's the gentler grade and the views open earlier.

Read the full combo guide →

Who writes this

One hiker, one van, most weekends above 9,000 feet.

Dana Whitmore on an alpine ridge at sunrise

Dana Whitmore Editor & lead guide

I've hiked Colorado's front range and high country for eleven years — 640 summits, a lot of them repeats. I write the mileage and elevation first, then the story, because that's the order I plan a trip in. Based in Golden; out most Saturdays before the sun clears the ridge.

Marcus Reyes snowshoeing a snowy ridge in a red jacket

Marcus Reyes Winter & gear

Snowshoes, traction and cold-weather routes. Marcus has broken trail on Quandary more January mornings than he'll admit, and he tests every boot and pole note on this site himself.

Priya Anand on a wildflower meadow trail

Priya Anand Seasons & wildflowers

Priya tracks the wildflower window from Crested Butte to the San Juans and keeps the permit and seasonal-access notes current. If a road opens late or a trailhead fills, she's the one who updates the guide.

The Sunday switchback

One trail, one gear note, every Sunday.

Mileage, elevation, the road condition, and whether the trailhead is worth the early alarm — straight to your inbox. No listicles, no sponsored gear.

Archive

Everything published, newest first.

    ▲ Switchbacks

    A Colorado trail journal. Mileage first, story second. Published from Golden, Colorado.

    Trails Field notes The writer Newsletter Archive

    © 2026 Switchbacks. Trail conditions change — check the forecast and land-manager rules before you go.

    Report this site